Travelers and Magicians 2005

A young government official named Dondup longs for a life away from his picturesque yet remote village, captivated by dreams of reaching the United States. His aspirations are evident even in his choice of attire, sporting a denim gho. However, fate takes a turn when he misses the sole bus to Thimphu, compelling him to embark on a journey of hitchhiking and walking along the scenic Lateral Road toward the west. He is joined by a colorful ensemble of characters: an apple seller, a Buddhist monk carrying his intricate dragon-headed dramyin, an inebriated fellow traveler, and the widowed rice paper maker alongside his daughter Sonam.

To pass the time during their trek, the monk shares the poignant story of Tashi, a restless farm boy who also yearns to escape the confines of village life. In his tale, Tashi rides a horse into a dense forest, only to find himself hopelessly lost amidst the remote mountains. There, his life becomes inexplicably intertwined with that of a wise old hermit woodcutter and his enchanting young wife. Tashi’s desires lead him into a treacherous game of lust and jealousy, as he becomes enamored with the beautiful wife while fearing the woodcutter’s wrath and his trusty axe.

In a moment of desperation, Tashi attempts to slay the woodcutter, with his complicit wife—who happens to be pregnant with his child—assisting him in this dark goal. Torn by guilt, he flees as the old man lies on the edge of death. Tragically, Deki, the woodcutter’s wife, calls out and pursues him but meets her demise in a raging mountain river during her chase.

Ultimately, Tashi’s thrilling escapades reveal themselves to be mere hallucinations brought on by chhaang, a traditional homemade liquor. This enchanting saga parallels Dondup’s own feelings for Sonam, intensifying as he grapples with his desires for adventure and connection. As he finally manages to catch a ride to Thimphu, the film concludes in ambiguity, leaving audiences pondering the outcome of Dondup’s visa interview and his potential voyage abroad. Will this journey change his perspective on the village and Bhutan, or will he choose the familiarity of home?